Wall Street Journal May 27, 2010
Mmmm, lard. That was the focus of dozens of the city's top chefs and foodies at Prime Meats in Brooklyn the other night. The pitch: Mangalitsa, a Hungarian breed of curly-haired hog with an oh-so fatty taste.
"This is the beginning of a lard-type fat revolution in this country," proclaimed Heath Putnam, owner of Wooly Pigs in Washington, the country's first importer of Mangalitsa pigs, which they now raise and sell.
George Faison, co-owner of DeBragga & Spitler, a butcher that placed a 1,000-pound shipment of the pricey pork Wednesday, pointed to a picture of a hog and its babies. "You let the animals live a little more like the way they're supposed to live," said Mr. Faison, minutes before the pigs ended up as succulent pieces of quickly devoured pork.
The hogs went over well with the likes of Tom Colicchio, April Bloomfield, chef at The Spotted Pig and Bradford Thompson, formerly of The Lever House who's gearing up to open a Jamaican restaurant this summer. There was maple sugar seared confit of Mangalitsa pork, dry cured Mangalitsa and shortbread cookies made from Mangalitsa lard.
"Tom Colicchio loved the cookie," said Mr. Putnam. "There's a whole lot of people who were there who want to use it."
Mr. Faison confirmed he delivered six neck rolls to Colicchio & Sons on Wednesday and expects the 1,000 pounds he ordered to sell quickly, despite the price tag of up to $9.50 a pound, depending on the cut.
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